It’s time: Farmers’ markets spring into action
As farmers’ markets open across the Pacific Northwest and Northern California, the economic vitality that accompanies the direct grower to consumer connection shows no sign of wavering.
The Oregon Farmers Markets Association estimates the state has about 160 markets, 40 of them in the Portland area. The state had 12 in 1987.
John Eveland, whose Gathering Together organic farm in Oregon is in its 27th year of selling vegetables at farmers’ markets, said markets are a response to consumer unease over “industrial” agriculture.
Anyone who is half-aware realizes how important food is, he said. With most people a couple generations removed from the farm, many look for a re-introduction to farmers.
“You start wondering where it comes from and how they produce it,” Eveland said. “I think it’s inherently reassuring to look at the people who actually had something to do with it.”
His employees make the rounds of up to nine markets in season, including several in the Portland area, 90 miles north of the farm. Market sales make up about 40 percent of his $2.5 million annual business. He also sells at his farm stand and to grocery stores, restaurants and Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) subscribers.
“They feed off each other quite well, it’s a little bit synergistic,” Eveland said. Having the farm’s name on the menu of high-end restaurants increases its visibility, and pays off in more sales when customers see Gathering Together’s booth at farmers’ markets.
Farmers’ markets also are a good outlet for excess production, he said. Farmers serving CSA customers, for example, often produce much more than subscribers require.
“You need a place to move product, and farmers’ markets are great,” he said. “If you show up to sell something this week and you don’t have it next week, it’s not the end of the world.”
Julie Laube hits the road from Greens Bridge Gardens, of Jefferson, about an hour south of Portland, while her husband, Jason, runs the family berry operation. The route includes markets in Beaverton, where they’ve sold for 26 years, and Portland, Lake Oswego, Salem, Lebanon and Lincoln City, in addition to a home fruit stand.
This month, Julie Laube found an eager reception for the family’s Jefferson Reds, one of the earliest strawberry varieties.
Markets also are an entry point for beginning farmers. Partners Sarah Lynch and Matthew Willis used a USDA micro loan to get started. They own Super Natural Farm in Willamina, a 9-acre organic operation about 60 miles southwest of Portland. They make the rounds to markets in Portland, Beaverton, McMinnville and Lincoln City. Lynch recently set up a booth at the Moreland Farmers’ Market in Southeast Portland to sell gleaming spring garlic, intensely purple kohlrabi and other early veggies.
Lynch said she’s been farming since 2006 and, with Willis, is committed to the lifestyle and to the work needed to succeed at it. At this point, farmers markets make up 75 percent of their business.
“We’re ready to go,” Lynch said.