Never a dulse moment in this kitchen
PORTLAND — Jason Ball has an unusual job at an unusual place. He’s the research chef at the Food Innovation Center in Portland, which itself is a joint venture of Oregon State University’s College of Agricultural Sciences and the state Department of Agriculture.
The FIC was among the first in the U.S. Ball believes his position is still somewhat unusual, but may become more common over time.
Ball’s job is to help develop food products. He said being a research chef combines the technical skills of culinary arts with the principles and methodologies of food science.
Which leads us to dulse, which is basically a red seaweed. Yum.
But it’s nutritious. OSU’s Hatfield Marine Science Center in Newport figured out 15 years ago how to raise dulse in tanks rather than harvest it from the ocean. The Marine Science Center was raising it to feed abalone when an OSU business professor, Chuck Toombs, took notice and turned his marketing students loose on the project. OSU fisheries researcher Chris Langdon and colleagues patented a strain of dulse, and Ball was hired to figure out what to make with it.
His hiring had its own bit of dulse kismet. Ball was in Copenhagen, working on plant-based ice cream products for the Nordic Food Lab, when he saw the job notice from the Food Innovation Center.
He was snacking on a dulse ice cream sandwich as he emailed then- center Director Michael Morrisey and FIC Product Development Manager Sarah Masoni to ask about the position.
He made sure to mention his snack choice; he got the job and started about 14 months ago.
The first commercial product to come from Ball’s FIC work is a dulse seaweed salad dressing and marinade, sold at New Seasons stores in the Portland area.
Ball enjoys the challenge of developing products that are “less luxurious or appealing.” It’s easy to make lobster or steak taste good, he said, but seaweed?
“I like to say that I am an equal opportunity cook — I don’t discriminate against ingredients,” Ball said by email. “Why can’t we approach all ingredients with that excitement and enthusiasm?”
Jason Ball
Who: Research chef at the Food Innovation Center in Portland, a joint venture of Oregon State University and the Oregon Department of Agriculture.
Personal: Age 31, originally from Chicago. Worked as a chef there, and in New York and outside London. Bounced about Europe. Began work at FIC in January 2015. Lives in Portland.
Best known for so far: Dulse development work. Developing food than can be made from seaweed, which in turn is grown in tanks, not harvested from the ocean.
All hail vegetables and bread: Finds cooking meat and fish “somewhat easy” and thinks vegetables are more interesting. Enjoys baking bread, especially natural yeast sourdough. “Honestly, warm bread (out of the oven — with butter and salt) is one of my favorite things to eat — so simple, yet so delicious,” he says by email.
His choice for an Oregon breakfast: A frittata with kale sprouts, heritage farm cheese, green garlic, chili flakes and potatoes, probably garnished with herbs and flowers. On the side he’d have a salad of mixed chicories, hazelnuts, herbs and tahini dressing. Fresh bread and coffee, as well.
When not cooking: Can most often be found at Lovely’s Fifty Fifty in North Portland, which he says has the best pizza and ice cream. Ever. “Hands down my favorite restaurant in Portland, maybe even the world,” he says.